Hiking Day 27: Rente > Castromaior

October 28 2019

I had awkward breakfast at my pseudo host family’s house and then got on the road around 8:30 am

It’s just awkward because they don’t really explain anything, like not what they serve etc. They just bring things in stages and you don’t know what’s coming or if that’s it.

They also tell you the meal is at a certain time but when you show up then- no ones around. Everyone’s huddled in the kitchen behind a closed door speaking Spanish and you just wait awkwardly in the hall. 

Anyway… weather was gorgeous again (knock on wood). Tee shirt weather with overcast.
I guess this time last year there was snow? Hard to believe.

The trail wove through small Galician towns in the countryside for the most part. It was during this stage that you also pass the 100km left marker. Although, one sad and annoying thing about this walk is: every single sign for the camino, is vandalized.

Literally every single one is written on. Like why? One guy (or gal) went to such lengths to write “no homosexuals. No feminists. No Muslims” on like every single sign for at least 300 miles in black permanent marker. And then people following are scribbling over it or changing the message etc. 

Which I’m glad they’re marking out the hate but ugh it’s just frustrating to read as you walk every 200m or so for milessss.

Last 100 km sign
Spanish cemeteries are like shelves or drawers where the coffin slides into… seems more land efficient because they can be stacked

I decided to just stop around mile 11 in the largest town we’d pass through, Portomarín

You had to cross a very pretty and large river into the town. I found an open grocery store (for once!) and bought deli meat, cheese, baguette, a peach, bag of cookies, chocolate bar, and a sports drink.

Although, I am consuming alarming amounts of food each day…
I did not eat all of this at once. Some is saved for snacks and breakfast tomorrow.

I ate next to the Cathedral and saw another girl- Julia, who has been traveling with the trio I’ve been weaving in and out with. She had the same idea so we ate our sammies and then each got coffee separate places (you do this as well so you can use a bathroom before walking again) . We both seemed to head out at the same time post coffee consumption.

Bathroom tariff

We didn’t walk together though. She had made a comment about doing these last couple days alone before seeing the group at the end so I took that as a hint to give her space. She started Oct 4 which means she’s been booking it because I started the 2nd and have been doing alternating 20 miles every other day for the past 13 days. She’s not gonna finish though till Friday and take her time

I was going to wait for the trio on Friday to celebrate, butttt then last minute booked a flight to London for the weekend. NY friends will be there… Pete, Tim, Kev etc and I thought it would be nice to see familiar faces before heading to Malaga and being alone again for a few days before classes start.

Tomorrow is my last 19-20miler and then it’s down hill next two days! 

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