October 24 2019
Today was beautiful, but physically- I struggled

We went down hill for the first 5 miles.
The scenery looked kind of like Hong Kong when hiking. Rolling green peaks and rocky dirt trails

We also walked through some very cute little Spanish villages tucked away in these hills


I really got massacred by bites two nights ago so was struggling with those, and the blister on the bottom of my foot was really bothering me today.


I didn’t get breakfast this AM (nothing was open). So stopped around 5 miles for a quick croissant and coffee. I then planned to stop again for a big lunch in Ponferrada (the next big town at mile 10)
I got in around 12:20… nothing was open. It was weird, like a bigger city but everything was closed
I finally found a restaurant but they said they wouldn’t do lunch till 1:00pm. That’s fine. I’ll just have a beer and fix my blister.
My blister was… just awful. Nothing I could really do at the moment
So replaced some bandaids and then set up camp
Charged my phone. Tried to figure out where’d I stop today etc
Lunch was GREAT
It was a pelegrino style meal, slight more (€15 instead of like 10-11), but the food has way more variety and refinement
For example: first course was a vegetable stuffed crepe with goat cheese on top….

Normally it’s like iceberg lettuce salad, soup, beans, pasta etc
After about an hour at that place- I set off again. Pace was slowwww my left foot is starting to get like a bunion on the side and my right foot has this blister
After about 2.5 miles – I reached the next town and said it’s time to throw in the towel. I was hoping to go about 15 miles today but
- the one hostal there told me they were full. The other wouldn’t answer their phone…
- I just couldn’t mentally do it. It was already 3:30 pm and I was crawling
So I found a place. Guy almost didn’t let me in bc he thought the bites on my head were bed bugs. I had to reassure him I didn’t think they were.
They’re large – not in a pattern really, not zig zagging, you can see the fang mark etc…
But then he had me creeped out and paranoid so after my shower- I asked to wash all my clothes including the ones I normally wear to bed. And then went on a mad googling spree
I still don’t think they look like bed bugs but ya..
After I showered and did blister care, I sat for a lonnnng time. About 2.5 hours just figuring out the next towns and my week. I’m going to aim for 20miles again tomorrow. I have a place to stay and I’m gonna send my heavy pack along and take a lighter one to give my feet some relief.
Did some yoga, and then got told it was time for dinner around 7:10pm
Dinner here was super no frills. Egg chorizo and potatoes … a glass of wine and BREAD!
Hi Lauren,
I know you don’t understand Chinese but I really want to share this with you.
I was thinking about you this morning when I listened to the song from the Chinese movie “The Climbers”, which is based on the poem 山高路远 written by a famous Chinese poet
Movie Trailer
Poem and song in Chinese
呼喊是爆发的沉默
沉默是无声的召唤
不论激越
还是宁静
我祈求
只要不是平淡
如果远方呼喊我
我就走向远方
如果大山召唤我
我就走向大山
双脚磨破
干脆再让夕阳涂抹小路
双手划烂
索性就让荆棘变成杜鹃
没有比脚更长的路
没有比人更高的山
The last two lines are very encouraging but Google Translate does not translate well as usual….
Shouting is the silence of the outbreak
Silence is a silent call
No matter how agitated
Still quiet
I pray
As long as it is not dull
If the distance shouts to me
I am going to the distance
If Dashan calls me
I am going to the mountains.
Broken feet
Simply let the sunset smear the path
Scratching hands
Simply let the thorns become cuckoo
No longer than the foot
No mountain higher than people
Here is my translation:
No road can stop you walking further
No mountain can stop you climbing higher
You rock!
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Thank you so much! I love this! I will hum this to myself tomorrow while I walk!
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