October 25 2019
I realized I haven’t been great about going through which small towns I walk through that are quite lovely.
If I were to redo this I might try to focus on some of those towns as destinations rather than just based on mileage for the day. Or take up a strategy that’s a mix of both. After – I’m going to try to go through and mark which ones stood out to me
For today, Cacabelos is one of the towns I passed through that was beautiful. Tons of rich people houses and we entered wine region again
The weather took a dramatic turn and vastly improved. It was sunny all day and even got up to 70°F
I love being in wine fruit tree regions because not only is it prettier, but you get tasty snacks along the way… as long as it’s not in someone’s yard 🙂
I kept seeing these fuzzy pears and I thought they were moldy. I learned their quinces and you shouldn’t really eat them as is. You have to bake with them and put them in pastries, jams etc
At least that’s what the store lady told me when I saw them in her store
I got a fig today, grapes and a REAL pear
Instead of stopping for lunch, I bought a mini baguette, ham, cheese, a bag of digestive cookies (which I’m ashamed to say I finished the entire bag), and a shandy.
My route was a long trail next to the river so I parked myself to eat around mile 13.
My new found taping method with the moleskin was proving pretty legit on my right foot but my left foot started to get a blister in the same spot. So frustrating ! It’s hard to tape mid walk bc you want to drain it first and it’s not super sanitary/ you should wait till you shower usually and the skins soft etc
So I decided to just slather some Vaseline on and go the rest of the 7 miles as is. Luckily it didn’t get too bad but I did have to reapply twice in those 7 miles. I stopped for another beverage and to sit for 15 min at mile 17.
When I reached my destination- I was so happy. It was so charming and the man was so sweet greeting me and showing me around. Totally a 180 from my guy last night who looked at me with disgust since I had spider bites on my head. And who’s property was fine for a night but they tried every opportunity to charge you or cut corners
It turns out, I’m the only person at the whole place tonight. Despite this, he was sooo hospitable. Wasn’t itching to get home or get rid of me. He turned jazz on in the common room for me, lit a fire in the fireplace, took his time with dinner.
It was really sweet.
I was told this hike is
Part 1: physical
Part 2: mental
Part 3: spiritual
Maybe I’m entering part 3 now? I felt remarkable gratitude for the weather and this hostal and the host after a couple hard days… Less than 7 days left … quite possible!
16 miles tmr to Fonfría!